Review: New Amsterdam Gin

…or, How to Demolish a Few Preconceived Notions…

Pine Sol…Mr. Clean…rubbing alcohol…

These are the first things that come to mind to many that dislike gin. I find it a shame, really. Gin is one of the most misunderstood of the major liquor types…perhaps even more than tequila. The poor quality swill that most experience is often maligned for its crisp conifer nose and shark-like bite. Whether it’s in a Long Island Iced Tea or a Gin and Tonic, the fierce vapors of “well” brands like Monarch scare too many people away from what I believe to be one the of the most complex and rewarding liquors one can enjoy.

With that in mind, I plucked out a bottle from my cabinet of joyous fluids that will surprise even the greatest detractors of “Dutch Courage”, New Amsterdam Gin.

New Amsterdam is a relative newcomer to the gin scene. I’ve seen it alongside old standbys Bombay Sapphire and Plymouth for only a few years, but its availability has become widespread. Less expensive than most high-quality (i.e. NOT MONARCH) gins, I purchased my 1.75L bottle at Portland’s Jantzen Beach liquor store for a VERY reasonable price...but more on that later.

Since gin’s primary uses include combinations with tonic water and vermouth, I decided to present as wide a review as possible, by sampling this offering not only on its own merits, but also in a classic Gin and Tonic formulation as well as my own Martini recipe.So, juniper detractors, let’s find out if all cheap gin is toxic…

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New Amsterdam Gin – “No. 485”

London-Style Dry Gin

Distilled by : New Amsterdam Spirits Company, a division of E. & J. Gallo Winery - Modesto, California

Tasted at home on Monday, May 17, 2010

1.5oz. Shot of New Amsterdam Gin

Color: Crystal clear with no haze or sediment.

Nose: Very light pine, balanced with a little lemon zest and hints of lavender. Not terribly complex.

Flavor: Subdued. Juniper flavors are present but are on nearly equal footing with licorice and citrus peel notes. Lingers a while. Little alcohol burn.

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So far, this gin has a very unassuming character. It carries enough botanical complexity to remind you that yes, this is a gin, but it’s almost too polite in the way it presents itself. It’s certainly not bad, but I’m used to something a touch more intricate.

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Gin and Tonic

2oz. New Amsterdam Gin – “No. 485”

Schweppes Tonic (wishing I had QTonic!)

1/6 Lime Wedge, Twisted for juice and peel oils.

Color: Still clear – no haze.

Nose: Added citrus of the lime lifts the juniper up the nose. Wafts of sweet rose.

Flavor: Still balanced, but the refreshing sweetness of heftier juniper/citrus notes are countered by a more prominent licorice flavor. Suprising. Would like to try this again with a proper tonic water. Does the job as a summer chiller.

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I was surprised by the pronounced licorice flavors. It adds an unexpected richness to the experience. This far in, I would like to have a touch more lemon zest and perhaps a Grains of Paradise touch of pepper to tip the scales back a bit.

Helpful hint! For a wholly different experience, add a splash of PAMA pomegranate liqueur to a gin and tonic. You’ll be rewarded with aromas and flavors of sweet, tart apple.

Very refreshing on a hot day!

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Martini

Free-Poured 3-1 Gin/Vermouth Ratio using Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth

Stirred in Ice

2 Manzanilla Olives

Color: Crystal-clear with a lovely jade vermouth hue. A pale emerald.

Nose: Sweet, fresh, and crisp. Hints of honeydew. Like a melon in a spring pine forest.

Flavor: Rich and velvety smooth with lighter than normal notes of juniper and citrus. Herbal characteristics of Noilly Prat come to the fore. No licorice, but the nose of melon is confirmed by a crisp sweetness that slides down the back of the palette. Noilly Prat may be too big for this gin, but it still makes a very serviceable Martini.

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FINAL VERDICT:

Overall, this is a gin that goes out of its way to be inoffensive. It’s not complex, but offers bits of classic London Dry character…like a preview of things to come. I really do like this gin and I’d recommend this to a beginning gin drinker or to one that isn’t a fan, but is willing to give gin an honest try. More experienced palettes may be left wanting for more.

…and here’s perhaps the best news: as of 18 May, 2010, a fifth of this perfectly fine gin will only run you about $15 (Washington State)! For the price of a substandard product, like Beefeater’s or Seagram’s, you be able to enjoy a taste of what a well-crafted gin is like. There are better gins out there, but for an every day “workin’ gin” New Amsterdam’s price and ease of drinking simply can’t be beat.

Salut!